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Pittarak Expedition: The Northwest Passage (57)
March – May 2011
2008 Ellesmere Island Expedition team members are gearing up for their next expedition and the Will Steger Foundation is excited to showcase their journey!Brother and sister duo from Canada, Sarah and Eric McNair-Landry will attempt to be the first to kite ski the Northwest Passage. Heading off in March, they will travel 3000 km by kite and cross-country skis. Their goals: To encourage youth to get active and to highlight the effects that climate change is having on the Northwest Passage.
Starting in the community of Tuktoyaktuk (NWT), they will retrace a historical route first sailed in 1906 by Roald Amundsen thought the vast Canadian Arctic Archipelago ending at the town of Pond Inlet (Nunavut). On their route they will travel through remote locations, challenging ice conditions, arctic storms and possibly encounter polar bears. They will highlight issues caused by climate change, namely the opening of the Northwest Passage for commercial use.
Image: Wikipedia
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Distance traveled: 18.5 km
Position: N72 41'36.1 W 077 56'48.0
Day 85 - Position: Pond Inlet!
Warm winds and rain in the last two days have turned the snow covering the sea ice into an inch to a foot of water. Today, an intermittent fog and a steady drizzle continued to add to the existing water. Yesterday, we had given up skiing and were now on foot, as the slippery ice was difficult to negotiate with skis. As a consequence, we were exhausted and eager to get to Pond Inlet, our final destination. Winter was over; it was time to trade our skis for sandals and shorts.
After 85 days, we have traveled 3300 km by foot, ski and kite-ski. We encountered major challenges, namely rough ice, polar bear encounters and a long detour around the Gulf of Boothia, which made the final destination even more rewarding.
By 9 PM, we arrived on the beach in front of town. Despite the cold winds and rain, a gathering of people met us on the beach to congratulate us and welcome us to Pond Inlet. It was nice to finally be here.
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Distance traveled
June 9th: 11.2 km
June 10th: 27.49 km
Location: N72 36'14.7 W078 25'01.5
As we skied across Eclipse Sound, the views of Bylot Island's tall peaks and glaciers faded in and out of the fog. Strong head winds blew the clouds our way; it was soon raining heavily, so we took shelter from the stormy weather.
In the tent, we gazed over our maps: Pond Inlet was only 45 km away. Since we crossed onto Baffin Island, we've been using an old set of maps, scribbled with notes, that have a dotted line marking an expedition route my parents, Matty McNair and Paul Landry, and two friends accomplished twenty-one years ago.
The team of four left Iqaluit on February 14th , 1990 with two dog teams, attempting to circumnavigate Baffin island, the worlds fifth largest island, along the traditional Inuit dog sledding routes. After my parents completed their saga, they settled in Iqaluit (Nunavut), and started a dog sledding adventure tourism company called NorthWinds.
As NorthWinds grew, my parents set out on longer expeditions, eventually guiding in some of the most remote polar locations, including to both the South and North Pole. Our house became an expedition base camp, with gear and new ideas constantly being tested.
It was there that Sarah and I were raised, our home looking over the Arctic Ocean. Having no television, we spent our time dogs sledding and camping, our parents patiently teaching us the skills to travel in the Arctic. I still tried to refuse to wear sunglasses, as I didn't think they were cool, and Sarah hated to wear a winter jacket to school (that wasn't cool either), but they persisted and obviously some knowledge has been passed down.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Distance traveled:
June 7th: 23.0 km
June 8th: 20.8 km
Distance from Pond Inlet (end): 55 km
Day 82 - Position: N72°30'44.9 W079°32'05
Every second day, we turn on our Iridium phone and wait for our new weather forecast to download. At times, these forecasts bring good news of future winds; the past couple of days, however, have read: winds less than 5 knots, from variable directions, with temperatures on the rise up to 0°C. And so we have steadily been skiing towards our final destination of Pond Inlet, hoping our next weather forecast will bring better news.
A couple years ago, while I was guiding in Antarctica, I met Mark De Keyser, who was forecasting weather for Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions. They spoke highly of his services, however I must admit I was skeptical about receiving weather forecasts on expedition. Shortly after, Eric and I headed to Mongolia to cross the the Gobi Desert by kite. Warned frequently about the fierce sand storms, we thought maybe it wasn't a bad idea to get weather updates.
I've since learnt the importance of these weather forecasts. Mark's advice on winds helped us plan our route and allowed us to be ready for the winds. The best example comes from when we were nearing Igloolik; after seven days of uncooperative head winds, a forecast finally came through calling for west winds, that would however only blow for 24 hours. Knowing this allowed us to plan for a long kite-skiing day, by only skiing four hours, then eating a big meal and sleeping for four hours. Sure enough, the winds picked up at 7 PM, as predicted. Rested and ready, we were able to kite the 154 km into Igloolik, getting there just as the winds died.
World Wide Weather 4 Expeditions, Mark's company, forecasts weather for all types of expeditions, including mountain, polar and sailing. Having just finished the Himalayas season, he is busy forecasting for Greenland expeditions and the first ever summer expedition to the north pole.
Thanks Mark for all your help and advise!
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Day 80 - Position: N72°14'56.5 W080°21'43.97
We are currently 100 km from our final destination; with the right direction of wind we could be there in a day. The winds however are lacking, which is of little concern, the scenery is spectacular and we have reduced the hours we ski so that we have more time to capture film and images. The warm spring weather along with the long hours of sunset light make this time of year ideal for taking pictures.
Arctic photographer, friend, and previous expedition member Curtis Jones gives some great tips that will hopefully inspire you to get outside and take some pictures.
Eric
Cold Weather Photography
Taking photographs in the cold can be uncomfortable and challenging, but also very rewarding and, if done right, not at all unpleasant. Here are a few simple tips to help make those bone chilling photo missions well worth the effort.
Be Prepared
Having the wrong or inappropriate clothing can have serious consequences, and it is not something you want to worry about after you got outside and began taking photos, especially in cold weather environments. Try to wear light breathable layers close to the body and build warmer insulating layers on top of that. Wear a final wind blocking waterproof layer (jacket and pants) and try to carry a puffy down or synthetic jacket to slip over everything if staying out in the cold for extended periods. I like to wear a thin wind-stop glove to shield from the cold as I manipulate the camera and cover up with a bigger warm mitt when not needing the use of nimble finger movements. Staying warm also means being well hydrated (think warm insulated thermos of hot chocolate) and well fed (bring along some high calorie snacks).
Camera
Try to keep your camera and lenses well protected while you travel and between photographs: bumpy sled or snowmobile rides can wreak havoc on the inner workings of your digital camera. Use a well padded camera bag designed specifically to house a camera and equipment or, even better for longer trips, a molded plastic all-weather case. Carry extra batteries close to your body to keep them warm and fully charged. Batteries will lose power fast in the cold, so try to conserve power when not taking a photo. Try turning off your LCD display and cycle cold batteries with warm ones. Even what appear to be dead batteries can often be warmed up and used for 10 or 15 more shots. Lithium batteries perform better in the cold than other types.
Avoid breathing directly on your camera, the warm air will fog or freeze onto your lenses and viewfinder. If this happens use a soft cloth to wipe the surface clear again. Using a UV or polarizing filter on your lens will help protect the surface and also make cleaning snow or moisture much easier.
Shooting
Most northern climates tend to have shorter days during winter and thus less daylight to shoot in. The light however is quite often very pure and clear with the sun hanging lower in the sky. Try taking photos from a side-lighted position to take advantage of the light adding drama and depth to your shots. Measuring exposure from light reflected from snow or ice will cause photos to be darker than expected. Try, if possible, to take light readings form medium grey surfaces or over expose the cameras suggested reading by 1 or 1.5 stops.
Returning Indoors
To avoid condensation, place your camera and equipment in your camera case or a plastic bag before entering a warm house, tent, or vehicle. Allow the camera to gradually warm up to the temperature of the room for about 2 hours before removing it. If the camera or lens has visible moisture on its surface, allow it to evaporate before using the camera again. Grab a hot bowl of soup and relax.
[Link: curtisjonesphoto.com]
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
June 4th, Day 78
Distance traveled:
June 3rd: 73.6 km
June 4th: 7.9 km
Position: N71°55'38.9 W080°49.35.7
The blizzard outside died down, and the sun made an appearance. We were rested and ready to make some miles. The temperatures have been increasing, hovering between 0°C and -5°C, and, as a consequence, the snow is rapidly disappearing. Our strategy is to cross Baffin Island as quickly as possible, before the snow completely melts away and the rivers start to flow, slowing our progress. The last 150 km of our route into Pond Inlet will be on thick sea ice, which melts out much later in the year.
We stuck to the snow covered valleys, kite skiing when the terrain allowed. Overflow water on the rivers was abundant, forcing us to zigzag across the landscape in search of snow. We made one last steep climb before dropping into a narrow gully, with high rocky cliffs blocking the winds. Exhausted, we could hardly stay awake while we waited for our dinner to cook.
This morning, the smell of spring was in the air and migratory birds could be heard chirping outside our tent. We strapped on our ski's and started our decent, the snow conditions continuously deteriorating as we got closer to the ocean. We hopped from one snow patch to the next, hauling our sleds over the tundra and rocks in between. It was a relief when Milne Inlet came into view. Soon after, the weather socked in and rain pelted down on us. There is nothing more miserable than skiing through rain in the Arctic at 5 AM; it was time to take shelter in our tent and enjoy a hot bowl of soup while we waited for the weather to clear.
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
June 3rd, Day 77
Distance traveled:
June 2nd: 59.5 km
June 3rd: Tent bound
Position: N71°31'06.0 W080°17'58.9
Yesterday, the winds died after only two hours of kiting, so we set up camp, wrote and launched an update, and were looking forward to catching up on sleep. However, much to our surprise, the winds switched directions and rapidly increased. We hurried to get ready and were able to kite for no more than an hour before heavy snowfall obscured visibility and gusty winds kept us grounded.
The next morning, a similar event occurred; the winds lessened temporarily, and we rapidly made our move. Three hours later, the storm was stronger than ever and kiting was out of control. We pitched our Hilleberg tent once again, with the satisfaction of knowing that we were sheltered form the elements, as this tent can withstand virtually any storm, and has.
These tents have proven themselves remarkable in many ways: last year, while on the Greenland Icecap, I weathered a 5 day storm relatively comfortably, and Sarah has weathered an Antarctic storm with winds gusting up to 90 knots (170 km/h) in one of these tents.
For this expedition, we have chosen the Keron GT 3. The tunnel structure makes them easy to set up in stong winds, and the extended vestibule is big enough to bring our sleds or other gear inside to repair or to shelter from the weather. Over the last couple years, these tents have become our homes; on a good year, we will spend more than half our time living in our Hilleberg tent.
We will let Stuart from Hilleberg explain why their tents do so well.
Eric
Hilleberg tents have been the top choice of discerning outdoor travelers around the world for over 35 years, and with good reason: they are utterly dependable in any season, comfortably spacious, and yet are still remarkably lightweight. Hilleberg, being family owned and run, is a company that has always been guided by their family passion for being outdoors and traveling in the wilderness. …Quality… for the company equals making the kinds of tents that they would not only be happy to use themselves, but that they would also be proud to have their best friends use, as well.
Today, the company offers 28 models of all season tents. All have linked inner and outer tents … an idea Hilleberg pioneered … for far quicker, more efficient pitching. All are conceived and developed in northern Sweden, and go through rigorous, real world testing before they are brought to market. And all offer the ideal balance of low weight, extraordinary strength and remarkable comfort.
Stuart W Craig
www.hilleberg.com
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Distance traveled:
May 31st: 131.3 km
June 1st: 21.6 km
Position: N70°41'55.2 W080°40'58.4
The winds were slowly increasing, and by 5pm we set off on our final leg, towards Pond Inlet. With the warm spring weather it is to our advantage to travel during the cooler nights when the snow surface is hard packed, and to sleep during the warm days.
Igloolik Island faded out of sight as we headed north crossing the Fury and Hecla Strait, a 50 km crossing before arriving on Baffin Island. The strait is named after Parry's two ships, who spent many years searching for the Northwest Passage.
During his first expedition Parry sailed north of Baffin Island mapping a huge artery of one of the Northwest Passages; Lancaster Sound.
On Parry's second expedition, he decided to sail south of Baffin Island through Hudson Bay in hopes of discovering a more southern passage to the Orient. His ships became locked in the ice near Igloolik for several years.
During that time the Inuit told him about a passage between Melville Peninsula and Baffin Island. With that knowledge and rough sketches of the area that the Inuit drew for him, he set out on an overland expedition. Sure enough there it was a narrow passage, filled with islands and clogged with ice even during the late summer months which made it impassible for his ships.
Now with a warmer climate and strong icebreaker ships, the Hecla and the Furry strait has been sailed a few times making it one of the several Northwest Passage routes.
With good winds we crossed the frozen strait, and continued north across Baffin Island. Weaving our way across the rolling landscape dodging rocks, we continue well into the morning till we were to exhausted to continue. Today however the wind only allowed us to travel a couple hours before diminishing.
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
No distance traveled
Position: Igloolik
The last few days in Igloolik have been a whirlwind, as we needed to make a critical decision; would there be enough snow on the trail to make it to Pond Inlet and furthermore what would be the best trail. After talking with locals, it appears that this year has had a late spring and exceptionally good snow; however, the rivers will soon open and because Pond Inlet has been getting more sunlight the snow has likely melted more further north.
The route that we have been recommended is one of the traditional dog sledding routes. Before plastics, Inuit throughout the North would ice the bottoms of their runners, an effective but fragile way of reducing friction. They would therefore avoid rocky snowless overland crossings. We are hoping this route still retains these desirable attributes.
We have already traveled over 2,800 km and only 400 km remain to attain our goal of Pond Inlet. Our detour south around the Gulf of Boothia has delayed us by about two weeks; we have however made the call to continue to Pond Inlet, with the best of hopes that the snow will last just a bit longer. With a slight but steady south west wind blowing, we are heading back out for our final leg.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Distance traveled:
May 26th: 38.1 km
May 27th: 11.1 km
May 28th: 153.7 km
Position: Igloolik - 69.3666N,081.7833W
After seven hard days of skiing, we were desperate for winds; without them, we would soon have to resort to our spare rations. On the morning of the 26th, a light and erratic breeze picked up from the south, and we were able to slowly make progress on our 14 meter Yakuza kites, flown on 60 meter lines.
Our weather forcast the next morning was titled: "the times they are a changing". West winds were perdicted to pick up at 6 pm and blow till 6 pm the following day. We skied only 4 hours, set up camp ate dinner and took a 4 hour nap. Sure enough, the winds picked up as predicted and we were quick to pack up our tent.
With our kites in the air, we started our descent off the plateau, fenced in in a narrow valley following a river. The rocky hills which rose up to 800 feet on either side confined us to the valley floor. For the first section of the night, we weren't able to kite more than 30 minutes at a time. The hills made the winds turbulent, at times blocking them completely, and the river often turned upwind. So we kited when possible, and walked or skied when the winds or terrain would not permit.
As the morning sun rose, we descended off the river onto flat terrain. However the winds were not favorable, gusting up and down forcing us to change our kite size frequently. Exhausted, we kept trying to make as many miles as possible. The town of Igloolik was still far, and we knew these west winds would only last till this evening. We had only 24 hours of wind, none could be wasted.
This wasn't our first 24 hour push; on our first Pittarak expedition in Greenland, we did a 24 hour day for "fun", covering over 400 km. This last year, Eric was back in Greenland and put in a new world record, traveling 595 km in 24 hours. However, Greenland is home to an immense icecap that has both steady winds and flat terrain. Today, between the terrain and the winds, the only record to be made is the number of times we un-rolled and re-rolled our kites.
Finally, as the sky clouded over, the winds increased, and we zipped across the white landscape. After twenty five hours of kite skiing, skiing and walking, Igloolik Island appeared on the horizon. We kite skied around the point of the island, and the town of Igloolik came into sight. It was late, and we were exhausted, so we pitched our tent. The delights of town could wait till tomorrow.
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Check out this new Team Pittarak video, in which they reveal how they stay in touch with the outside world and keep you informed.
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
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