Eric McNair-Landry
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A tribute
Distance traveled
June 9th: 11.2 km
June 10th: 27.49 km
Location: N72 36'14.7 W078 25'01.5
As we skied across Eclipse Sound, the views of Bylot Island's tall peaks and glaciers faded in and out of the fog. Strong head winds blew the clouds our way; it was soon raining heavily, so we took shelter from the stormy weather.
In the tent, we gazed over our maps: Pond Inlet was only 45 km away. Since we crossed onto Baffin Island, we've been using an old set of maps, scribbled with notes, that have a dotted line marking an expedition route my parents, Matty McNair and Paul Landry, and two friends accomplished twenty-one years ago.
The team of four left Iqaluit on February 14th , 1990 with two dog teams, attempting to circumnavigate Baffin island, the worlds fifth largest island, along the traditional Inuit dog sledding routes. After my parents completed their saga, they settled in Iqaluit (Nunavut), and started a dog sledding adventure tourism company called NorthWinds.
As NorthWinds grew, my parents set out on longer expeditions, eventually guiding in some of the most remote polar locations, including to both the South and North Pole. Our house became an expedition base camp, with gear and new ideas constantly being tested.
It was there that Sarah and I were raised, our home looking over the Arctic Ocean. Having no television, we spent our time dogs sledding and camping, our parents patiently teaching us the skills to travel in the Arctic. I still tried to refuse to wear sunglasses, as I didn't think they were cool, and Sarah hated to wear a winter jacket to school (that wasn't cool either), but they persisted and obviously some knowledge has been passed down.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Capturing the moment
Day 80 - Position: N72°14'56.5 W080°21'43.97
We are currently 100 km from our final destination; with the right direction of wind we could be there in a day. The winds however are lacking, which is of little concern, the scenery is spectacular and we have reduced the hours we ski so that we have more time to capture film and images. The warm spring weather along with the long hours of sunset light make this time of year ideal for taking pictures.
Arctic photographer, friend, and previous expedition member Curtis Jones gives some great tips that will hopefully inspire you to get outside and take some pictures.
Eric
Cold Weather Photography
Taking photographs in the cold can be uncomfortable and challenging, but also very rewarding and, if done right, not at all unpleasant. Here are a few simple tips to help make those bone chilling photo missions well worth the effort.
Be Prepared
Having the wrong or inappropriate clothing can have serious consequences, and it is not something you want to worry about after you got outside and began taking photos, especially in cold weather environments. Try to wear light breathable layers close to the body and build warmer insulating layers on top of that. Wear a final wind blocking waterproof layer (jacket and pants) and try to carry a puffy down or synthetic jacket to slip over everything if staying out in the cold for extended periods. I like to wear a thin wind-stop glove to shield from the cold as I manipulate the camera and cover up with a bigger warm mitt when not needing the use of nimble finger movements. Staying warm also means being well hydrated (think warm insulated thermos of hot chocolate) and well fed (bring along some high calorie snacks).
Camera
Try to keep your camera and lenses well protected while you travel and between photographs: bumpy sled or snowmobile rides can wreak havoc on the inner workings of your digital camera. Use a well padded camera bag designed specifically to house a camera and equipment or, even better for longer trips, a molded plastic all-weather case. Carry extra batteries close to your body to keep them warm and fully charged. Batteries will lose power fast in the cold, so try to conserve power when not taking a photo. Try turning off your LCD display and cycle cold batteries with warm ones. Even what appear to be dead batteries can often be warmed up and used for 10 or 15 more shots. Lithium batteries perform better in the cold than other types.
Avoid breathing directly on your camera, the warm air will fog or freeze onto your lenses and viewfinder. If this happens use a soft cloth to wipe the surface clear again. Using a UV or polarizing filter on your lens will help protect the surface and also make cleaning snow or moisture much easier.
Shooting
Most northern climates tend to have shorter days during winter and thus less daylight to shoot in. The light however is quite often very pure and clear with the sun hanging lower in the sky. Try taking photos from a side-lighted position to take advantage of the light adding drama and depth to your shots. Measuring exposure from light reflected from snow or ice will cause photos to be darker than expected. Try, if possible, to take light readings form medium grey surfaces or over expose the cameras suggested reading by 1 or 1.5 stops.
Returning Indoors
To avoid condensation, place your camera and equipment in your camera case or a plastic bag before entering a warm house, tent, or vehicle. Allow the camera to gradually warm up to the temperature of the room for about 2 hours before removing it. If the camera or lens has visible moisture on its surface, allow it to evaporate before using the camera again. Grab a hot bowl of soup and relax.
[Link: curtisjonesphoto.com]
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Gimme shelter
June 3rd, Day 77
Distance traveled:
June 2nd: 59.5 km
June 3rd: Tent bound
Position: N71°31'06.0 W080°17'58.9
Yesterday, the winds died after only two hours of kiting, so we set up camp, wrote and launched an update, and were looking forward to catching up on sleep. However, much to our surprise, the winds switched directions and rapidly increased. We hurried to get ready and were able to kite for no more than an hour before heavy snowfall obscured visibility and gusty winds kept us grounded.
The next morning, a similar event occurred; the winds lessened temporarily, and we rapidly made our move. Three hours later, the storm was stronger than ever and kiting was out of control. We pitched our Hilleberg tent once again, with the satisfaction of knowing that we were sheltered form the elements, as this tent can withstand virtually any storm, and has.
These tents have proven themselves remarkable in many ways: last year, while on the Greenland Icecap, I weathered a 5 day storm relatively comfortably, and Sarah has weathered an Antarctic storm with winds gusting up to 90 knots (170 km/h) in one of these tents.
For this expedition, we have chosen the Keron GT 3. The tunnel structure makes them easy to set up in stong winds, and the extended vestibule is big enough to bring our sleds or other gear inside to repair or to shelter from the weather. Over the last couple years, these tents have become our homes; on a good year, we will spend more than half our time living in our Hilleberg tent.
We will let Stuart from Hilleberg explain why their tents do so well.
Eric
Hilleberg tents have been the top choice of discerning outdoor travelers around the world for over 35 years, and with good reason: they are utterly dependable in any season, comfortably spacious, and yet are still remarkably lightweight. Hilleberg, being family owned and run, is a company that has always been guided by their family passion for being outdoors and traveling in the wilderness. …Quality… for the company equals making the kinds of tents that they would not only be happy to use themselves, but that they would also be proud to have their best friends use, as well.
Today, the company offers 28 models of all season tents. All have linked inner and outer tents … an idea Hilleberg pioneered … for far quicker, more efficient pitching. All are conceived and developed in northern Sweden, and go through rigorous, real world testing before they are brought to market. And all offer the ideal balance of low weight, extraordinary strength and remarkable comfort.
Stuart W Craig
www.hilleberg.com
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Leaving for our final leg
No distance traveled
Position: Igloolik
The last few days in Igloolik have been a whirlwind, as we needed to make a critical decision; would there be enough snow on the trail to make it to Pond Inlet and furthermore what would be the best trail. After talking with locals, it appears that this year has had a late spring and exceptionally good snow; however, the rivers will soon open and because Pond Inlet has been getting more sunlight the snow has likely melted more further north.
The route that we have been recommended is one of the traditional dog sledding routes. Before plastics, Inuit throughout the North would ice the bottoms of their runners, an effective but fragile way of reducing friction. They would therefore avoid rocky snowless overland crossings. We are hoping this route still retains these desirable attributes.
We have already traveled over 2,800 km and only 400 km remain to attain our goal of Pond Inlet. Our detour south around the Gulf of Boothia has delayed us by about two weeks; we have however made the call to continue to Pond Inlet, with the best of hopes that the snow will last just a bit longer. With a slight but steady south west wind blowing, we are heading back out for our final leg.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Our contact with the outside world
Check out this new Team Pittarak video, in which they reveal how they stay in touch with the outside world and keep you informed.
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
How we dress to stay warm [Video]
So now that they are racing against spring to make it to their final destination, Team Pittarak does not go to such lengths. When they started, however, it was... ahem... slightly colder. So here's what they do to keep from that cold.
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Sunburns all around
May 25th, Day 68
Distance traveled:
May 24th: 13 km
May 25th: 26.9 km
Position: N67°40'07.7 W083°41'53.3
We awoke at two in the morning. hoping that the forecast we had received three days prior would come to be and bring us some much needed west winds. Unfortunately, we woke up to stillness and sunshine; outside our tent, another sunny and windless day began.
Today, I got a sunburn on my legs, which goes to show how warm the Arctic can feel without the bite of the wind. The sun, however, can be violent; in the spring, it shines endlessly and its reflected glare off the snow greatly magnifies its power. Sun burns can be uncomfortable, but snow blindness, a type of painful but temporary blindness due to overexposure to UV, is far more serious.
The sun is not always a menace however; it turns our tent into a greenhouse, making it toasty warm every morning, and it helps keep our electronics charged, thanks to the two solar panels and the HET battery pack that we have brought along with us. This in turn keeps our electronics, satellite phone and, most importantly, our ipods charged.
After 6 days in a row of skiing, we have our fingers crossed for some favorable winds!
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Klättermusen
May 23rd, Day 66
Distance traveled:
May 22nd: 14.2 km
May 23rd: 24.2 km
Position: N67°20'59.2 W084°06'59.5
When we started our journey back in March, the temperatures were cold and the sun only appeared briefly. As we move into spring, the temperatures have been hovering around -5C to -15C, warm for Arctic standards. But today, with head winds and overcast skies, we layered up and pulled our hoods tightly around our faces.
Both wind and snow are needed to kite ski, so we tend to spend lots of time in windy Arctic weather. But cold weather is only miserable if you are not properly prepared with the right clothing. Layers are worn for more versatility; starting with base layer against your skin to wick away moisture, warm layers are then added, with a wind shell on top. And when it's really cold, we throw on our big down jacket and insulated pants.
It's not easy to find clothing that works well in these harsh climates and that is durable enough to last an expedition. Sadly, most outdoor gear these days is made for riding chairlifts. A couple years ago, we were introduced to Klättermusen, a Swedish outdoor clothing company. Their slogan, "maximum safety for you, minimum impact on nature", sums up the company. Their products are designed for serious use, to last long, with lots of design put into all the small important details from buckles to zipper pulls. But not only do they make quality gear, their environmental initiatives are also impressive.
To start, Klättermusen donates 1% of their sales to environmental projects, and now uses recycled nylon fiber to make packs and bags.
They have also recently started RECOVER, which allows customers to return old products to reclaim a deposit. The old clothing is then used to make new clothes, or, if it's appropriate, repaired and given to charity.
Not to mention they are part of the ECO-Index, which assesses the level of impact a product has on the environment, allowing the customer to compare the eco-footprint of garments, and for the companies themselves to improve.
Impressed? Wait till you see their clothing! To read more, check out their website: www.klattermusen.se
Sarah
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
More chocolate please
May 21st, Day 64
Distance traveled:
May 20th: 25.29 km
May 21st: 22.1 km
Position: N67°10'21.6 W084°52'50.0
Recently my thoughts have been increasingly gravitating towards food, and why there is so little of it left in my snack bag. Every break, I seem to rummage around in the various plastic bags looking, and if I'm lucky, I'll find bits of chocolate covered nuts, or pieces of licorice. Still, the vast majority of bags seem to be empty, or filled with wrappers.
On long ski days, rationing snacks can be tricky. We eat a Camino chocolate bar a day, so rationing these is simply a matter of will power; other items however, such as the bag of mixed nuts, are harder to mentally divide between five days, four snack breaks a day. Today is day five of our snack rotation, and my snack pack is feeling quite light.
Out in the field, we eat roughly 5000 calories a day and yet some days we still feel hungry. The mornings start with home made granola and powdered milk, along with three cups of hot chocolate. During the day, we eat a variety of nuts, chocolate and dried fruit, and for supper, we have soup followed by a variety of Harvest Foodworks freeze dried dinners.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
Of plans and routes
Distance traveled:
May 16th: 48.1 km
May 17th: 25.2 km
Position: N67°03'20.6 W086°59'09.3
Yesterday, the rough ice in Committee Bay kept us land bound, so we kite-skied south, following the trail toward the town of Repulse Bay. There was alarmingly little snow covering the sandy and rocky coastline; the snow had often melted on either side of the trail. Spring melt is definitely on its way.
This morning, we huddled over the maps with our GPS in hand, reviewing the available information. We had two options ahead: we could continue to detour south-east overland pushing inland towards flat kiteable terrain, or we could attempt to ski the next few days through the rough ice of Committee Bay.
Although the Committee Bay route was much shorter, heading inland, provided the winds were good, would allow us to travel bigger distances with our kites.
We had recently received a weather update calling for north-west winds tomorrow, and clear windless weather for today.
And so we decided that sometimes, you have to head south to go north, so we packed our kiting gear away, got out our shorts and ipods out and hauled through the day and into the night. With any luck, there will be winds tomorrow and we can kite overland.
Eric
[Via Pittarak: Northwest Passage Expedition]
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