Ellesmere Expedition 2008 (77)
Position: Resolute Bay
Temperature: -25.6 °F/ -32 °C
Wind: 11 MPH/ 18 KPH, ESE
Distance traveled: 0 km
We arrived here in Resolute past midnight last night. The dogs did really well during the four hour flight but were very happy to get out of their kennels and back to the cold. We worked on preparations until 4 a.m. this morning and we are aiming to start our long journey after breakfast tomorrow. We are all now looking forward to get started.The arctic seems intimidating right now and the cold temperature is not comfortable. However, we are ready and we feel very confident that we will reach northern Ellesmere and witness the last remaining ice shelves of the northern hemisphere. All good. Best regards from Toby and the rest of the expedition team.
Toby Thorleifsson
Additional Info:
Resolute
Resolute is located in the High Arctic, on the south coast of Cornwallis Island. Home to just under 230 people, it was named after a British ship, the HMS Resolute, that passed through the area in search of Franklin’s expedition.
The history of the community of Resolute is very similar to Grise Fiord. Inuit families were relocated for Canadian sovereignty reasons and forced to make ends meet by living in the harsh climate of the High Arctic.
Resolute is now the gateway community to the north. It is home to a weather station and provides a base for the Polar Continental Shelf Project.
Reference:
http://edt.gov.nu.ca/docs/communities/Resolute.pdf
Who named Ellesmere Island?
The European and Euro-American/Canadian assault on the High Arctic started in the 17th century and in 1616 William Baffin was the first non-aboriginal person to sight Ellesmere Island since the Norse Vikings. The further exploration of Ellesmere Island did not take place until the 19th century when a number of primarily American and British expeditions were launched. Ellesmere Island was named by Commander E. A. Inglefield who was in charge of a British Expedition to the High Arctic in 1852. Inglefield did not know that Ellesmere was an island and named his discovery Ellesmere Land after the Earl of Ellesmere who was also the vice president of the Royal Geographical Society in London.
Position: N 74,38.346 W 094,43.095Distance traveled: 2 mi/ 3.2 km
Our first day on the ice, what a great feeling to be finally relieved of all the pre-expedition stress! No more air travel, no more business emails, no more sleepless nights. Ahead of us are 60 amazing days, spent with six incredible people and 30 great dogs. This will be a journey!
We woke up early in the morning to pack out our remaining gear, and despite our efforts we only hit the trail later in the evening. With sleds loaded down with 20 days of food our progress was slow and we camped in sight of Resolute Bay. Tommorow will be our first real day on the ice.
Eric McNair Landry
Position: N 74,37.864 W049,02.927
Wind: Light
Distance traveled: 20.5 km/ 13 mi
Physical Conditions: White nose and frosty eyelashes
So we are here. At the end of our first full day. Wow, it's great to be on the trail. Months of preparation and training. Days full of orgaizing and emails and now we are here; it is quiet. Nothing to organize, just the things we have to do to get through the day safely and with the most amount of miles under our belt. Today traveling started off slow and I wasn't sure how we were going to fair on the trip. Slowly we made our way through the rough sea ice to the flatter ice and we gained some momentum. We took turns skiing in front, giving the dogs something to run towards.
It was pretty cold on the face today. You have to be really careful. My nose had turned white before someone pointed it out to me. Luckily it was not deep and all was OK!
Being covered up causes frost to attach itself to everything. Everyone had large icicle balls imbeded in their eyelashes, hair and masks. It makes for a great picture.
Anyway all is good so far. Sitting in my tent now with Eric. Just had supper and going to get some rest for another big day tomorrow.
Keep up with our progress, it's going to be exciting.
Sam
Position: N 74,59.501 W 093,24.430
Wind: Blowing snow, NNW
Distance traveled: 28.1 km/ 17 mi
Another great day on the ice; as we start to eat through our food and the dogs start to eat through theirs, the sleds become lighter and we gain momentum. Currently we are still laiden with supplies for the next 17 days, about 700 lb per sled, making forward travel slow but still manageble. A large portion of that weight is the dogs food, about 350 lb, the rest is people food, camping equipment, gas for our tent stoves and an impresive electronic kit that allows us to send these updates.
Eric McNair-Landry
Position: N 75,26.807, W 093,42.880
Distance traveled: 18 km/ 11 mi
We are just finishing a delicous dinner. Sarah and I got invited to Sam and Eric's tent for a get- together dinner. The menu is stew with cheese, bacon and butter, lots of butter. For breakfast we eat oatmeal and toast. The talk of the evening is about the polar bear that just visited our camp.
The last miles of the leg today we crossed polar bear tracks many times, and it was not a surprise when it paid us a little visit. It was a middle sized bear just sniffing around our camp to figure out what we were making for dinner. Will shot off a bear banger after a couple of minutes to scare it off and Sam had time to take some pictures. Now we are all excited to see if it will come back tonight while we are sleeping. I think everyone is going to sleep a little lighter tonight than usual.
Good night. Looking forward to a beautiful day tomorrow.
Sigrid
Norwegian Translation:
Position: N 75,26.807, W 093,42.880
Distance traveled: 18 km
Naa stter jeg I teltet til eric og sam, er stappa mett etter en god middag. Gryte med mye smor, ost og bacon. Samtalen gaar I ett om isbjornen som for bare en time siden besokte oss I leiren. De siste par km krysset vi mang isbjornspor,saa det var ikke en stor overaskelse at den kom paa besok naar vi begynte aa koke middag. Det var en middels stor bjorn, sannsynligvis en hunnbjorn. Den kom opp til omtrent 15 m fra oss og etter ett par bilder fyrte will av ett skremmsels skudd. Bjornen foyk avgaarde,men jeg har en folelse av at den kommer tilbake senere I kveld. Vi kommer vel alle til aa sove litt lettere enn vanlig. Utrolig flott dag I dag med straalende sol, vindstille og rundt -30. Vi kjorte gjennom mye pakkis , goy, mye jobb og kort distans. Vi har det helt supert. Haaper alt er bra med alle hjemme.
God natt,
Sigrid
Position: N 75,17.440, W 093,32.633
Distance traveled: 20.5 mi/ 33.6 km
After being spoiled by awesome terrain the last couple days, we ran out of luck. Dead ahead, on the horizon, lay patches of rough ice. We managed to weave our way in and out, hugging the shore avoiding most of the bigger chunks. The terrain was an awesome new challenge for both ourselves and the dogs as we navigated and hauled our sleds through.
I want to now to take the time to introduce you properly to some of our 30 dogs, since without them this trip would not be the same. Raven, a big black male, is the lead dog on the front team. Almost nine years-old, his age doesn t slow him down. For both him and his brother Zorro, expeditions are nothing new. They, and many other dogs on the team have been to the north pole twice, not to mention numerous other trips they've done!
Raven's job as a lead dog isn't easy. Ahead of the other dogs, he breaks the trail and keeps the momentum going by picking the best path. On top of that he also takes commands to start, stop or turn. Here are some of the commands we use to drive dogs:
Hike: Start pulling
Hah: Turn left
Gee: Turn right
Woah: Stop
Easy: Slow down
Down: Sit down
And last but not least, happy birthday to Ben, our photographer who will be joining us on the second leg!
Keep following our expedition,
Sarah
Position: N 75 30.401, W 093 40.616
Temperature: -33 °C/ -36°F
Just after Sigrid finished her dispatch last night our campsite was again visited by polar bears. This time it was two bears. One huge mamma bear and her two year-old cub. Unlike our curious visitor earlier in the evening, these bears were not easy to scare off and they got very close to our dogs and tents - we measurered the distance at about 6 meters. It took about five bear bangers and flares to scare the bears off and we were all pretty scared when they got as close as they did. Luckily for us, the bears are well fed this time of year as they feed on the newly born seal pups and the adult seals that are nesting under the snow on top of the ice.
Today when we continued our journey we saw over 20 different bear tracks and it became clear to us that we now are in an area that is a great habitat for the bears. At one place we saw the fresh evidence of a successful kill. We saw the remains of a seal den, polar bear tracks and lots of blood. Life is harsh here in the high arctic and a polar bear needs to eat too.
Traveling today was very hard. We battled through rough ice for the third day in a row. Seeing all the polar bear tracks we also kept looking over our shoulder. Tonight we finally came to flatter ice and we hope tomorrow will bring better travelling conditions - and that we will not be woken up by bears tonight.
We are all doing very well.
Toby Thorleifsson
Additional Info:
The polar bear (Ursus maritimus) is a Bear native to the Arctic and Subarctic. The world's largest land carnivore (meat eater, feeds on other aimals), an adult male generally weighs 300–600 kg (660–1320 lb), while an adult female is about half that size. Its fur is hollow and translucent, but usually appears as white or cream colored, thus providing the animal with effective camouflage. Its skin is actually black. The thick blubber and fur insulate it against the cold. The bear has a short tail and small ears that help reduce heat loss, as well as a relatively small head and long, tapered body to streamline it for swimming. The polar bear is adapted for a life on land, sea, and ice. It feeds mainly on seals, young walruses, and whales, although it is an opportunistic feeder and will eat almost anything if hungry.
The polar bear is classified as a vulnerable species. Scientists believe that the projected decreases in the polar sea ice due to global warming will reduce their population by two thirds by 2050.
Posisjon: N 75 30.401, W 093 40.616. Wellington Channel
Temperatur: -33 °C
Vi er naa paa vei nordover mot Arthur pass paa Devon Island som vil ta oss inn I Norskebukten. De siste dagene har det gaatt meget tregt fordi isforholdene har vaert meget roffe. Ofte har vi maattet bruke oeks for aa lage vei gjennom isen. I omraadet er det ogsaa veldig mye isbjorn. I gaar hadde vi besok av hele tre bjorner hvorav de siste to kom saa nerme som seks meter fra teltet til meg og Will. Vi sov ikke spesielt godt I natt noen av oss. I dag saa vi spor av bjorn 20 ganger og vi er spente paa hva kvelden og natten vil bringe. Det er likevel flott aa vare I et omraade hvor bjornens habitat er saa bra som her. Isen er full av sel unger og vi ser spor mange steder hvor bjornen har endt et ungt sel liv. I kveld kom vi endelig ut I bedre isforhold og vi haaper at vi kan gjore unna mer distanse I morgen. Vi er paa vei mot Otto Sverdrups rike.
Alt vel,
Hilsen Tobias
Position: N 75 40.629, W 093 44.027
Distance traveled: 11.8 mi/ 19.1 km
Today was an interesting day spent moving in and out of treacherous ice. Occasionally we would hit a large pan of flat ice, usually criss-crossed with polar bear tracks, and this would allow us to travel faster. But in between pans of flat ice are areas that are gumbled up due to amazing pressure from when the ice shifts. This ice can be dangerous to us, our sleds and dogs. The sleds can run over a person and dog alike and possibly cause injury, and if the sleds flip or forcefully run into ice chunks they can break.
Special care is used when making sleds, both in chosing the material and in construction. Out of our three sleds, two of them were fabricated in Ely, Minnesota (for the 2007 Baffin Island Expedition) and one in Iqaluit by Sarah and myself. The sleds are composed of runners, handlebars and cross pieces known as "napuks".
Each sled runner is made from a 14 foot long kiln-dried pine (Douglas Fir or Sitka Spruce) plank wedged between two pieces of plywood for added strength. The sleds rises in the front and back giving it rocker which allows it to turn more easily. The napuks are made of oak, and the sled is lashed together with rope, giving it the freedom to twist and bend slighlty when going over bumps. The handlebars are also made of plywood and are shaped, rounded and finally lashed to the sled. The specific sled design is known as a South Baffin design, generally used on sea ice and capable of enduring substantial pounding from rough ice.
Eric McNair-Landry

So we're here at the end of day nine. We've got a long way to go but so far it's moving fast. I'm sure the others have told you all the things that have happened in the last week. Traveling through a labyrinth of ice, bears coming into camp and even being stalked by one. It has really been exciting. Today we hit some flats. It's a nice change of pace and we have slowly started to make those miles we so desprately need. The dogs are enjoying the rest from pulling our heavy sleds over mountains of ice boulders, and their motivation has given our voices a rest from shouting "hike, hike, hike" every twenty meters. All is going great so far. The grime is starting to build on our clothes and we can smell all the hard work we've been doing the last week. Our faces have turned a leathery brown and white from our glasses surrounds our eyes. We are starting to look like a project of our environment. I am loving this so far. Its a great team of people who all add something unique to the cause. Keep doing all your own exciting things.
All the best,
Sam
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